Kerta Gosa (Semarapura Palace)
Kerta Gosa (Semarapura Palace)
A royal pavilion of justice from the kingdom era, famous for its stunning ceiling murals in the Kamasan style.
Located in Klungkung (modern-day Semarapura), Kerta Gosa is a historical remnant of the Klungkung Kingdom, which was once the highest-ranking kingdom in Bali. Known as the 'Hall of Justice,' this open-air pavilion (Bale) was built in the early 18th century. Its most remarkable feature is the ceiling, completely covered in intricate Kamasan-style paintings. These murals vividlyโand sometimes gruesomelyโdepict scenes from the ancient Hindu epics, the 'Mahabharata' and 'Sutasoma,' as well as the karmic rewards of heaven for good deeds and the punishments of hell for wrongdoing. It is said that this pavilion served as the kingdom's supreme court, where kings and priests would pass judgment, using the ceiling paintings to visually explain the doctrine of karma (cause and effect) to the accused. It is not only a masterpiece of traditional Balinese art but also a crucial historical monument that tells of the kingdom's judicial and governing philosophies.
History: The Klungkung Kingdom and the Puputan
From the 17th to the early 20th century, the Klungkung Kingdom was the most authoritative kingdom in Bali, holding sovereignty over the island's other realms. However, as Dutch colonial rule intensified in the early 20th century, the kingdom met a tragic end. In 1908, the royal family and their retainers refused to surrender, choosing instead to fight to the death in a ritual mass suicide known as the 'Puputan.' Kerta Gosa stands as a silent witness to both the kingdom's glory and its tragic fall. The adjacent museum displays weapons used in the Puputan and other royal artifacts, making it an essential stop for understanding Bali's modern history.
Culture: The Kamasan-Style Ceiling Murals
Kamasan style is a traditional form of Balinese painting that developed in the nearby village of Kamasan. It is characterized by its distinctive, flat, puppet-like (Wayang) figures and its use of a limited color palette, primarily red, brown, black, white, and yellow. The ceiling of Kerta Gosa is considered the supreme masterpiece of this style. The narrative is structured in tiers, starting from the lowest level and ascending towards the celestial realms at the top, representing a complete Cosmology. Hiring a guide to explain the meaning behind each panel will greatly deepen your understanding.
Architecture: The Floating Bale Kambang
Next to Kerta Gosa, the 'Hall of Justice,' is another beautiful pavilion called Bale Kambang ('Floating Pavilion'), which is surrounded by a moat, making it appear as if it is floating on water. This structure was reportedly used by the royal family to entertain guests or for relaxation. Its ceiling is also adorned with Kamasan-style paintings, primarily depicting stories of Prince Panji and King Sutasoma. The reflection of the elegant structure in the surrounding water creates a serene atmosphere, contrasting with the solemnity of Kerta Gosa.
What to See (Check This Out!)
The Kerta Gosa ceiling is divided into nine levels. The lowest tier features a diagram used for predicting earthquakes (Palintangan), offering insight into the people's traditional worldview. The tiers above that vividly depict the various tortures inflicted upon sinners in hell, which are truly captivating. Try to follow the story by letting your gaze travel slowly upwards. The on-site museum also exhibits artifacts used in traditional Balinese ceremonies and various textiles, providing a broader education on Balinese culture.
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