Pura Kehen
Pura Kehen
An ancient temple in East Bali, greeted by stone steps and a giant banyan tree. A sanctuary dedicated to protecting the kingdom.
Located in the heart of Bangli Regency, Pura Kehen is considered one of Bali's most beautiful and enigmatic temples. Its name derives from a word meaning 'fire' or 'hearth,' indicating its role as the center of regional faith. Its foundation is thought to date back to the 11th century, and by the 13th century, it was established as the state temple of the Bangli Kingdom. It boasts a scale and prestige second only to Pura Besakih, yet it remains relatively uncrowded, preserving a quiet and solemn atmosphere. The temple, built on a hillside, is accessed by a beautiful stone staircase lined with statues of mythological figures. A giant banyan tree, said to be several hundred years old, towers over the courtyard, its mystical presence overwhelming visitors as a witness to the temple's long history.
History: State Temple of the Bangli Kingdom
Pura Kehen was the most important temple for protecting the Bangli Kingdom, which once ruled eastern Bali. Inscriptions from the 11th to 13th centuries remain on the grounds, indicating the temple's ancient origins and its use for official kingdom ceremonies. While Pura Besakih is the mother temple for the entire island, Pura Kehen can be described as a regional sanctuary, strongly tied to the identity of the specific Bangli community.
Architecture: Unique Style and Chinese Porcelain
The temple's architecture has several unique features not seen in other Balinese temples. For example, the main shrine's gate is not the typical 'Candi Bentar' (split gate) but a pyramid-like structure. Furthermore, some walls are embedded with porcelain plates, believed to have been brought from China through maritime trade. This is interesting evidence that the royalty of the time incorporated foreign culture as a symbol of wealth and authority. These designs speak to the temple's unique historical background.
Culture and Faith: The Sacred Banyan Tree
The giant banyan tree towering in the inner courtyard is not just a large tree; it is revered as a sacred tree inhabited by gods. In a rare sight, a pavilion housing the 'kulkul' (a large wooden slit drum used for ceremonies) is built into the tree's trunk, integrating the structure with the tree itself. This drum has been used as an important signal for village meetings, the start of ceremonies, or to warn of danger. This banyan tree is the spiritual heart of the temple and a symbol of community unity.
Highlights (What to Check Out!)
The 38-step staircase leading to the temple is magnificent, lined with stone statues of characters from 'Wayang Kulit' (shadow puppetry). From the courtyard at the top of the stairs, you can look out over the town of Bangli. In the most sacred inner sanctum (Utama Mandala), a splendid 11-tiered Meru tower rises. This Meru is believed to be dedicated to the mountain god, the guardian deity of the Bangli Kingdom. As it is slightly off the main tourist path, this temple is highly recommended for those who wish to quietly appreciate traditional Balinese architecture and religious atmosphere.
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