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Balinese Temple Architecture: Cosmology of Directions and Realms - 1

Balinese Temple Architecture: Cosmology of Directions and Realms

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Balinese Temple Architecture: Cosmology of Directions and Realms

Meru (multi-tiered towers), split gates, cardinal directions. Deciphering the religious meanings inscribed in architecture.

Balinese temples (Pura) are not merely places of worship; they are microcosms, three-dimensional representations of the Balinese Hindu cosmos. Temple design adheres strictly to a sacred directional axis: 'Kaja' (towards the holy Mount Agung, representing purity) and 'Kelod' (towards the sea, representing impurity). All significant elements are oriented along this axis. Temples typically consist of three courtyards (Tri Mandala), representing the transition from the profane outer world, through an intermediate realm, to the most sacred inner sanctum. Every architectural feature, from the iconic 'Candi Bentar' (split gate) to the towering multi-roofed 'Meru' shrines reaching for the heavens, is imbued with profound religious symbolism. Visiting a Balinese temple is akin to journeying through their spiritual universe.

Tri Mandala: Three Courtyards Reflecting the Cosmos

A Balinese temple is usually divided into three zones called 'Tri Mandala.' Passing through the symbolic split gate, 'Candi Bentar,' one enters the outermost courtyard, 'Nista Mandala.' This marks the boundary with the mundane world and serves as a gathering and preparation area during festivals. Next, passing through a more ornate gate, 'Kori Agung,' leads to the intermediate zone, 'Madya Mandala.' Here, several 'Bale' (pavilions) are typically found, used for Gamelan performances or preparing offerings. Finally, situated in the innermost area, towards the sacred Mount Agung, lies the most holy courtyard, 'Utama Mandala.' This sanctuary houses the multi-tiered 'Meru' towers where deities descend, along with altars, forming the heart of worship. This three-tiered structure symbolizes the spiritual progression from the human realm towards the divine realm.

Gates Dividing Sacred and Profane: Candi Bentar and Kori Agung

Two distinct types of gates characterize Balinese temple architecture. The entrance to the outer courtyard is marked by the 'Candi Bentar' (split gate). Resembling a single tower split perfectly down the middle, it lacks a roof. This is said to symbolize the dualistic nature of the world (good and evil, yin and yang), signifying the transcendence of worldly conflicts and struggles upon entering the sacred precinct. In contrast, the entrance to the inner, holier sanctuary is guarded by the 'Kori Agung,' a grand, roofed gateway. The top of this gate is often adorned with the terrifying face of the mythical creature 'Boma.' Boma is a guardian deity who prevents evil spirits from entering the sacred space. Passing through this gate signifies purification and entry into a more profoundly sacred realm.

Meru Towers: Thrones for the Deities

Within the 'Utama Mandala,' the temple's most sacred courtyard, the multi-tiered 'Meru' towers command attention as they soar towards the sky. With their distinctive black roofs made from palm fiber layered in multiple tiers, these towers symbolize Mount Meru (Sumeru), the sacred mountain at the center of the Hindu cosmos. Meru are considered temporary 'thrones' or residences for the gods and ancestral spirits who descend from the heavens during ceremonies. The number of roof tiers is always odd (3, 5, 7, 9, or 11), signifying the rank of the deity enshrined within. The highest towers, with 11 tiers, are dedicated to the supreme deities like Shiva or Vishnu, or to Sanghyang Widhi Wasa, the ultimate God in Balinese Hinduism. Their graceful forms serve as sacred symbols connecting heaven and earth.

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Balinese Temple Architecture: Cosmology of Directions and Realms | Balitra | Complete Bali Travel Guide