Sacred Mount Agung | Volcano Worship and Eruption History
Sacred Mount Agung | Volcano Worship and Eruption History
The 1963 eruption killed 1500; its relationship with Besakih Temple; the center of mountain worship in Balinese Cosmology.
Mount Agung, Bali's highest peak at 3,031 meters, is an active volcano and the most sacred object of worship for the Balinese people. In their Cosmology, Agung is the 'world axis,' connecting the celestial realm of gods with the earthly realm, and is considered the embodiment of the Hindu holy mountain, Meru (Sumeru). Balinese life is oriented around this sacred mountain based on the directional concept of 'Kaja-Kelod,' influencing the layout of temples and homes, even the direction one sleeps. While its serene majesty brings blessings, Agung sometimes erupts as a wrathful deity, causing immense destruction. The devastating 1963 eruption remains the largest natural disaster in Bali's modern history.
The Center of the Cosmos: The Sacred Mountain Where Gods Reside
In the Balinese Hindu worldview, Mount Agung is not just a mountain but a microcosm of the universe. The summit corresponds to the heavens (Swarga Loka) where gods dwell, the slopes represent the human world (Bhur Loka), and the base and the sea symbolize the underworld (Patala Loka) inhabited by spirits. Consequently, the direction towards Agung, 'Kaja,' is always considered sacred and pure, and people face this direction when praying. Conversely, the direction towards the sea, 'Kelod,' is considered impure. This 'Kaja-Kelod' sacred axis is the fundamental principle guiding all spatial design in Bali, demonstrating Agung's central position in the Balinese spiritual world.
The Profound Connection with Besakih Temple, the Mother Temple
It is no coincidence that Besakih Temple, the mother temple of Balinese Hinduism, is situated on the slopes of Mount Agung (around 1,000 meters elevation). This temple complex, the most important and holiest in Bali, was built to worship the mountain deities and ancestral spirits residing on Agung. It comprises over 30 individual temples, with the central Penataran Agung Temple dedicated to the Hindu trinity (Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma). Besakih is, in essence, a human prayer crystallized and offered upon the great natural altar that is Mount Agung. By praying at Besakih, people commune with the deities of Agung, seeking harmony and prosperity for the world.
The Great Eruption of 1963: A Tale of Divine Wrath and Miracles
In 1963, Mount Agung erupted violently, causing one of the 20th century's major volcanic disasters. Pyroclastic flows and heavy ashfall killed over 1,500 people and devastated numerous villages. The eruption profoundly shocked the Balinese because it occurred during preparations for the Eka Dasa Rudra, the most sacred purification ceremony held only once every 100 years. Many believed the gods were angered by perceived flaws in the ritual execution. Miraculously, however, the main pyroclastic flows diverted around the Besakih Temple complex, leaving it almost unscathed. This event was interpreted as proof of the gods' immense power and protection over the temple, further solidifying Besakih's sacred status in the narrative passed down to this day.
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